Welcome to a new Taos Amp project.  I wanted a steadycam but they all seem too obtrusive, heavy and expensive so  I built Johnny Chung Lee's $14 design. It worked well for me but I wanted a better camcorder release system and  maybe something with more of a professional look but without spending too much.

 

    In Walfart's I spotted this $19 tripod. It looked like just the thing to base a steadycam project on. It's not as shabby as the price would imply ...... This project could be called the $24 steadycam.


Disassembling the Tripod

      Remove the plastic hook from the bottom of the center column. Be sure the spreader ring is not locked then unscrew the center column from the center ring  (where the legs and carrying handle are mounted) and put it aside.

Unhinge and remove the legs by removing the three screws holding them to the center ring.


      With a pair of small nippers, remove the soft aluminum rivet that connects the lateral strut to one of the legs. (A).  If you want to use the lock ring to hide the joint between the center shaft and the weight (cosmetic) then remove the 3 rivets attaching the struts to the lock ring (B) or just cut them off since the mounts will be cut off in step 4.

A         B


Modifying the pan/tilt head

Remove the pan handle (Y-axis lock) and replace it with a 1/4" headless bolt and  wingnut

 

 


Installing the rubber grip

     A rubber bicycle handlebar grip is used to cover the top of the pedestal shaft and provide a comfortable handle. Since the grip slides on from the bottom of the shaft; the center ring must be removed. The crank/gear shaft assembly must be removed to allow this

   

      You can pry the crank and shaft out of it's mounting by placing a flat head screwdriver between the crank and the center ring and twisting until the little plastic locking nub releases (usually with a loud pop). Then you can tug out the crank and it's attached shaft. 

         

       Now you can  remove the center ring from the bottom of the pedestal shaft. Cut the closed end from the handlebar  grip and slide it up the pedestal shaft to the pan / tilt head. 


 
( Sorry, the handle mounting section is still in progress )

The pan handle is used as the side handle to stabilize side-to-side movement.
Mounting this is probably the only difficult  part of the project.

     Drill a 3/16" hole completely thru the leg mount shown. 
Drill a 1/4" hole thru the side arm mount reinforcement  (leg tip x). 

             
 

 


Attaching the weight and
monopod adapter socket to the center column

     The brain,  A remarkably powerful, yet surprisingly affordable 2.5_lb computer that is capable of calculating and aligning itself to the precise center of the earth billions of times per second.
    
     The black circle is a piece of mouse pad and is only cosmetic.  


     

     The weight is a perfect fit for the monopod center column. There's even a raised ridge (A)  to provide a stop. To secure the weight, put a ring of epoxy at point B (below) and slide the weight over it. Stand it upright  on the base and let it dry overnight.

         

    


The Monopod Adapter

     This  PVC adapter (C above) will provide a female mount for the monopod leg.. Side #1 is threaded for a 3/4" pipe and side # 2 is 1" inside diameter. The bottom of the center column fits into it snugly. Again, epoxy and let dry.

 

     If you want to use the cosmetic spreader lock ring, prepare it by cutting off the three legs. The thin plastic lock pieces are delicate so use some tape to hold the two parts together before sawing off the legs. You should end up with something that looks like D (above)

 



The Monopod Leg


     Since I had 3 surplus telescoping legs, I thought I'd use one to fashion a detachable monopod adapter from one. The monopod is excellent, it's sturdy and the weight helps keep it steady, much better than the commercial $60 one I had.


3/4" Galvanized Nipple


Leg Preparation


1/4" Bolt

    
     The monopod adapter is constructed with one of the tripod legs and a 1 1/2"x 3/4" nipple from the plumbing department of the hardware store. Saw the leg in 3 parts as shown above.  The section marked with an  x is used to reinforce the side arm mount (step 3). The center piece is not used. The 4 edges of the leg marked with a red dot will need a sharp rap or 2 with a hammer to slightly round the end of the leg so it will fit into the nipple. Apply a goodly amount of epoxy and insert the leg to the nipple about 1".
 

       


     Once dry,  I drilled thru the center of the nipple and epoxied in the 1/4 in bolt as shown below above.  After that dries, cut off the excess bolt length and file smooth. I used a piece of large heat shrink to cover the joint.  (the bolt is probably unnecessary but I did it anyway)

     Well, that's about it. This article is a bit short and sketchy but, hopefully,  I will soon do a more in depth, step-by-step article.

Have fun,

Frank    /~
     @/

 

Home